Maumere: The Perfect Introduction to Flores
- Donna Kitchen
- 3 days ago
- 8 min read
Updated: 1 day ago
From our first motorbike ride and hilltop prayer garden to incredible scuba diving, here's how our Flores adventure began.
Most people travelling to Flores either only go to Labuan Bajo to see the Komodo Islands or a liveaboard sailing experience or fly to Ende and start their overland adventure to Labuan Bajo, but not us!
Fortunately we have time on our side so we were able to start our trans Flores Highway motorbike experience from Maumere.
To back up a little, you need to understand the geography of Flores island.
Getting to Know Flores
Flores is one of Indonesia's most captivating islands, stretching around 360 kilometres from east to west, while rarely more than 70 kilometres wide. Although it looks relatively small on a map, its rugged terrain means travelling across the island is far slower than the distances suggest.
A spine of dramatic volcanic mountains runs almost the entire length of Flores, creating a landscape of winding roads, deep valleys, fertile farmland and lush forests. Around almost every corner you'll find another spectacular viewpoint, colourful villages clinging to hillsides, and towering volcanoes rising above the clouds.
Unlike its famous neighbour Bali, Flores still feels refreshingly authentic. Tourism is growing, but much of the island remains wonderfully unspoilt, where traditional villages, quiet coastal communities and dramatic mountain landscapes are simply part of everyday life. It's the kind of place where the journey is just as memorable as the destinations themselves.
Our Flores adventure began in Maumere, the island's largest town on the east coast. From there, we spent the next three weeks riding west by motorbike, following winding mountain roads, stopping in remote villages, exploring volcanic landscapes and diving some of Indonesia's most pristine reefs. By the end of the journey, it was easy to understand why so many travellers consider Flores one of Indonesia's greatest road trips.
The Journey Begins
We flew to Flores from Denpasar, Bali, with a short stopover in Makassar, Sulawesi. Our route was simply based on the best flight option for the day, although you can also fly to Maumere via Labuan Bajo, with both routes operated by Wings Air.
Far from being disappointed by the stopover, we were actually excited. Sulawesi has been on our travel bucket list for years, so even a brief visit to the airport felt like a little preview of a destination we'll hopefully return to one day.
As we stepped off the plane in Makassar, the first thing we noticed was the heat. It was only around 10 am and already 34°C - a noticeable jump from Bali. Makassar sits much closer to the equator, and the tropical warmth certainly made itself known.
The second surprise was the airport itself. Opened in 2024, it is bright, modern and far larger than we expected, with multiple airbridges, plenty of seating and a good range of cafés and restaurants.
After a relaxed couple of hours, we boarded our 90-minute Wings Air ATR 72 flight to Fransiskus Xaverius Seda Airport in Maumere. As soon as we stepped onto the tarmac, we both looked at each other and smiled. It wasn't something we could explain, but there was an immediate feeling that we were going to love Flores.
A friendly driver was waiting to take us the 12 kilometres to Sea World Club Beach Resort, where we were warmly welcomed by Jasmine. After a quick introduction to the property, she showed us to our beachfront bungalow, and within minutes we knew we'd chosen well.
Maumere isn't a tourist town in the way Bali is. You're not going to find beach clubs, nightlife or rows of Western chain restaurants - and that's exactly what appealed to us. Instead, life moves at a slower pace, with local warungs, fishing boats bobbing offshore and a genuine sense of everyday Indonesian life.
For us, it was paradise.
Our bungalow sat just metres from the water, making it impossible to resist an early morning swim before breakfast. Waking up each day to the sound of gentle waves and uninterrupted ocean views was the perfect way to begin our Flores adventure.
One thing we had organised well in advance was our transport. We arranged for two motorbikes to be delivered directly to the resort by Motor Adventure Bali, who made the whole process incredibly easy. Their communication was excellent, confirming everything via WhatsApp on the day we arrived and delivering the bikes right to our accommodation, ready for our three-week journey across Flores and the best part of this plan was that we only had to ride the bikes one way, not return.
Our first day in Maumere was all about getting our bearings, becoming familiar with the motorbikes and settling into the slower pace of Flores before beginning our journey across the island.
Our first impression was that Flores felt very different from both Bali and Lombok. The houses immediately caught our attention. It's difficult to describe exactly why, but they have a much more rustic feel. Some are built from brick, others from timber, and many are quite modest in their construction. Life here appears simpler, with homes that seem built more for practicality than appearance.
It was our first glimpse of what would become a recurring theme throughout Flores. The island feels less developed and less geared towards tourism than many other parts of Indonesia. For us, that was part of its charm. It felt authentic, unhurried and refreshingly real.
It is key to understand that Flores is predominantly Catholic from the legacy of the Portuguese time of control, although they eventually ceded control of Flores to the Dutch, who officially held control until Indonesia’s independence in 1945. The island is now a mix of Catholics and Muslims, overlaid with traditional Melanesian cultures and beliefs. They are very proud of the coexistence and acceptance, even pointing out small graveyards with alternating Christian and Islamic graves. We sensed no tension anywhere and apparently they celebrate and revel a bit in each others holidays. Flores really is a special place.
Spending our first few day in Maumere and surrounds gave us a good sense to the way of life for most Florians and their amazing welcoming friendliness and gratitude for visiting their island.
Just off the coast of Maumere are several small islands with some excellent snorkelling and scuba diving. As I was keen to get underwater, I spent quite a bit of time researching dive operators before settling on Santai Divers, who consistently came highly recommended.
We headed out for two dives, the first at Pangabatang and the second at Pulau Babi, known locally as The Crack. Both were fantastic dives, but if I had to choose a favourite, it would definitely be Pulau Babi.
Pangabatang offered healthy coral and plenty of marine life, but on the day we visited there was a fairly strong current. Combined with me having one of those dives where buoyancy just refused to cooperate, I spent more time than I'd like trying to stay perfectly trimmed!
Pulau Babi, on the other hand, was much more relaxed. The gentler conditions meant we could slow right down, exploring the cracks, overhangs and tiny crevices in the reef. It was one of those dives where the more carefully you looked, the more you discovered, and I came away feeling much more relaxed and able to simply enjoy being underwater.
One of the most fascinating features at Pulau Babi is The Crack - a 30-metre-long fissure in the coral reef that was torn open by the powerful 1992 Flores earthquake. The earthquake triggered a devastating tsunami that reshaped both the island and the surrounding reef, leaving behind this remarkable underwater reminder of nature's immense force.
If you're a diver visiting Maumere, I'd happily recommend Santai Divers. They were professional, safety-conscious and made for a thoroughly enjoyable day on the water.
One of the places we decided to visit while staying in Maumere was Taman Doa Maria Bunda Segala Bangsa (The Prayer Garden of Mary, Mother of All Nations), a peaceful hilltop sanctuary on Mount Nilo in Sikka Regency.
At around 490 metres above sea level, the gardens overlook Maumere and the coastline beyond. The views are beautiful, but it's the atmosphere that really stands out. Everything feels calm. The pathways meander through well-kept gardens, leading visitors towards the large statue of the Virgin Mary that watches over the surrounding landscape.
Opened and blessed in 2005, the prayer garden has become one of Flores' most important Catholic pilgrimage sites, welcoming both Indonesian and international visitors. Many people visit during May and October, the traditional Marian months, although it's a peaceful place to experience at any time of year.
What we hadn't expected was seeing so many local teenage couples scattered throughout the gardens. Rather than feeling like a busy tourist attraction, it seemed to be somewhere people simply came to spend quiet time together. Some were praying, others were sitting in silence, while the young couples had found secluded spots amongst the gardens to enjoy each other's company. It gave the place a genuine local feel rather than feeling staged for visitors.
Whether you're religious or not, it's easy to appreciate the tranquillity here. We found ourselves slowing down, taking in the views and enjoying the stillness before continuing our journey around Flores.
There's no entry fee, although a donation box sits beside the small gift shop in the car park for anyone who would like to contribute towards the upkeep of the gardens.
If you're travelling through Maumere with a little time to spare, we'd definitely recommend making the short drive up to Mount Nilo. It's not somewhere you'll spend half a day, but it's a lovely place to pause, enjoy the scenery and experience a quieter side of Flores.
As we rode away from Maumere, we both knew this was exactly the kind of adventure we'd been searching for. Not just ticking off another destination, but experiencing somewhere that still feels wonderfully raw and authentic.
As we rode away from Maumere, we both knew this was exactly the kind of adventure we'd been searching for. Not just ticking off another destination, but experiencing somewhere that still feels wonderfully raw and authentic. A place where the journey is as rewarding as the destination, where every roadside stop becomes an opportunity to connect with local people, learn about their culture, and discover places we'd never heard of before arriving.
We know there is so much more for us to learn about Flores, but one thing has already left a lasting impression - the people. Their warmth, genuine kindness, and the way they've welcomed us to their island is unlike anything we've experienced in our travels. If this is just the beginning, we can't wait to see what the rest of Flores has in store.
This is the raw adventure we were hoping for.
Our journey was about to take a dramatic turn.
Leaving the tropical coastline behind, we climbed into the cool mountains of central Flores, swapping bathers for thermals as we made our way to Moni - the gateway to the legendary Kelimutu crater lakes. We knew the famous sunrise would be unforgettable, but if Flores had taught us anything already, it was that the magic rarely lies in just one destination. It's found in the people you meet, the roads you travel, and the unexpected moments in between. And somehow, we had a feeling the best was still to come.
See you in Moni!
Kev and Donna XOXO
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